Randy Blanchard is a professional trainer who has successfully trained for decades, champion dogs of all breeds for hunting and every testing system imaginable. This article is long overdue and will be an invaluable resource for owners training for any versatile tests and hunting. It improves not only the direct entry into water but the same when returning across water. -Jeff Martin
Bank cheating: Getting it straight
An important skill for the versatile hunting dog to learn is bank cheating, where the dog is required to take to the water instead of running around it. I regularly see dogs avoid water when sent on a blind or live duck search and needlessly fail there test. Numerous articles cover bank cheating, including some from Germany. Unfortunately, they talk about the benefits rather than the process.
The process in training is always in sequential order. You break down the intended result into a series of small steps, then train each step separately until you can chain them all together, resulting in a trained dog that has mastered the subject. This can be started once the dog is retrieving thrown bumpers ( preferably Dokken) proficiently to hand, from water.
Teaching bank cheats is a must do for any dog, training for SOLMS or VGP level waterwork and is beneficial for several reasons. It teaches obedience, develops trust between dog and handler, and helps the dog learn to love water and water blind retrieves. Once taught thoroughly, the dog will never avoid water !!
First is the explain stage. The dog has to understand what you want him to do, then you proceed. E-collars are most definitely counter productive.
LESSON ONE Sequential order in correcting bank cheating
Step1
- Have the dog sit at B, as close to the water as possible.
- Handler moves to A and gets the dog’s attention.
- Handler throws a bumper approximately halfway to the dog.
- Careful, if the toss is more than the halfway, the dog will be encouraged to return to B.
- Command the dog to fetch. When the dog is at the bumper, command sharply, “come.”
- There is the Goldilocks syndrome that you should know about when doing water retrieves. First, too cold: If you call the dog to come before he reaches the bumper, he may not pick it up or, more likely, he’ll pick it up but may not return to you. Second, too hot: If you wait too long (he has already grabbed the bumper), then the dog has already made up his mind and may go on his merry way to another exit point on the pond. Third, just right: Command come when the dog is committed to grabbing the bumper. This will ensure that he comes directly to you.
- Repeat. This time leave the dog at A while you walk around the bank to B. Repeat.
Step 2
- This is the start of the bank cheat. Bring the dog back to B.
- This time use your voice and body language to call the dog. Keep your voice soft and calm.
- The dog will not go into the water. Rather, he will run the bank, so be ready for it. You can help the dog by using your body movement. As you call him, bend at the waist, move to your right and extend your right arm as a silent over command.
- The dog will run the bank. Don’t say anything, just quickly move towards him and meet him at C, point X.
- Don’t say a word. Just hold him by the collar and escort him back to B. Calmly ask him to sit, then return to A.
Step 3
- Ask him to come again. Give a bigger show of what you want with body language.
- The dog will cheat the bank three or four times before taking to the water. It doesn’t matter how much water he takes, just as long as part of him is wet. (Example, he’s still running the bank but his feet are in the water. If any part is in the water, give him lots of praise.)
Once the dog is successful, change positions and repeat. This time the dog will take the water. Then change positions again and repeat. Now the dog is not cheating. Time to stop and end the session for him to think on his successes. You can repeat lesson one over successive days or even next weekend until you are confident in the dogs progress, but always repeat this at the very same pond for now.
LESSON TWO
Next level is return to the same spot. This time puts distance between you, the dog and the water.
Step 1
Same as Lesson 1, but this time start by putting you and the dog 10 – 15 feet away from the water’s edge. If problems arise, simplify and shorten the distance.
- If this works, increase the distance from the water’s edge.
- Once you can run the dog without him running the bank, increase the distance to 15 – 20 yards. Remember to reverse positions each time you run the dog.
Step 2
Now you progress to doing water blind retrieves. This time you don’t change positions.
- Put more distance between the dog, blind location and the water; 20 -30 yards is enough. Before starting, establish the blind by letting the dog see you place the bumpers.
- Do the water blind two or three times then stop for that lesson. You can come back and revise it or move to other ponds to repeat the lesson in following days. If your dog ever cheats in a real retrieve ( unlikely) meet him at position X , then return him to where he picked up the game and he will return correctly across water when called just as you’ve proofed him. You now have a thoroughly reliable water dog
The beauty of this method is that it’s all positive. When the training is complete you will have a happy, obedient dog willing take to the water on command.